A South African vineyard under Table Mountain. Photo: Alamy

22 January 2012 by Tomás Clancy

Dr Eilis Cryan is on a one-woman mission to bring bespoke South African wine to Ireland

On February 2, 1659, Dutchman and physician Jan van Riebeeck noted in his diary that he had made fair and fine wine from vineyards he had planted in scrubland in what would later be called Constantia, on hills outside the Dutch East India Company‘s settlement of Cape Town.

Back in Europe, meanwhile, vast swathes of what would become Bordeaux’s Medoc heartland were still marshlands, or underwater. It would take decades of further work by van Riebeeck’s fellow Dutchmen to complete the polders that would eventually help drain the left bank of the Gironde estuary and turn these gravelly riverbeds into the source of great wine.

Despite the fact that its wines and wine estates predate this, and many other ‘Old World’ regions, South Africa is forever branded a ‘New World’ wine producer. In addition, the country’s political strife has held it back from competing for our hearts and wallets on the same level as fellow New World wines from Australia, Chile and New Zealand.

Yet for the savvy wine observer, there are plenty of signs that the time is ripe for change.

The Shadow of History

The problem for South African wine is that it operates two industries: a bulk brand business in the middle of an identity crisis, and a tiny mass of small, family-owned properties which have neither the financial clout nor the inclination to mount a worldwide campaign. And both operate under the long shadow of apartheid.

You need only to look at New Zealand to know that a country’s image has a lot to do with how its wines are received. In the case of South Africa, two generations of potential worldwide customers grew up with boycotts of South African products.

But in 2012, the first post-apartheid generation will turn 18 around the world. This is the first generation of potential wine consumers who need not view South Africa through a political prism.

A Double-Sided Coin

Ireland’s larger wine importers have a twin track approach to South African wine. So a large player such as Febvre & Company, which brings in a bigselling brand from South Africa such as Two Oceans, will also import a smaller, hand-crafted product.

One woman, however, has made it her mission to concentrate solely on handcrafted, Burgundy-style South African wine. Co Galway doctor, Eilis Cryan, became interested in South African wines after travelling to the country in 1998. She founded Kinnegar Wines on her return, and began a 13-year engagement with some of the best winemakers and wine estates in South Africa.

Over the years she has amassed Irish agencies for wine estates that are fought over tooth and nail in other jurisdictions. She somehow manages to convince these estates to sell into the Irish market, when their wines are offered on allocation only in the US and Britain.

The winemakers both admire and respect Cryan and seem to value loyalty above much else. “We, like so many similar wine estates in South Africa, look to the long term,” says Thomas Webb, general manager of Thelema Wine Estate. “We know it is not just a quarterly business, everything changes. It is about looking to build long term, not make short-term mistakes and changes. “Planting vines is a huge, generational commitment. Replanting is a big event, looked at purely in monetary terms, so many things in the wine business would not make sense. What we look for is someone who understands us, in Ireland certainly Eilis and Kinnegar know what we are about,” says Webb, who operates one of a brace of revered South African wineries owned by his father and cellar master Gyles Webb.

Cryan and Kinnegar Wines have represented Thelema in Ireland since 1998 and that faith and loyalty is something Webb says is hugely important to him and his family.

Along with Thelema Wine Estate, Kinnegar’s South African-only portfolio includes Paul Cluver Wines, whose Noble Sweet Riesling is considered one of the best sweet wines in the world; and De Trafford Wines, a hero of St Emilion garagiste-style wines situated in a high valley above the University city of Stellenbosch, the academic and spiritual home of the South African fine wine renaissance.

It’s Not Where You’re From, It’s Where You’re At

One of the most hideous phrases in contemporary Ireland is the Nuremberg Trials-like defence trotted out by the most culpable politicians, bankers and developers: “We are where we are” – in other words, they were only following orders, now let’s all move along and forget about their crimes.

Getting past the giant shadow of the past has been a problem for all of South Africa, and its wine business has suffered from this darkness as much as the rest. Before the fall of apartheid, and in its immediate aftermath, the wines that found their way onto wine shelves were most likely to be products of the KWV. The KWV or Ko-operatieve Wijnbouwers Vereniging van Zuid-Afrika, was founded in 1918, and by its demise with the dismantling of apartheid it had become a quasi-governmental body which set the market price for wine and, in essence, regulated the entire industry. It oversaw poor quality co-operative wines and dealt with unsold surpluses in wine, not by seeking increases in quality or price reductions, but by operating a vast system where wine was distilled into spirits or dumped.

These, however, are mere administrative errors, and many other wine regions operated similar policies at one time or another.

The unholy issue in South Africa, which almost dares not to speak its name, is that of exploitation of the majority population by the minority who owned the wine farms. In particular, the issues of using what amounted to tied farmhands to work the crop, and the use of a quasi-feudal payment called the Dop System. Dop was paying workers in wine and occasionally food. Vast swathes of South Africa’s wine farms until the 1970s were farmed by farmhands living in unsanitary, barely humane conditions in shanty-style accommodation and paid with the provision of basic sustenance.

As late as November 2011, the NGO Human Rights Watch produced a condemnatory report on South African farming called Ripe With Abuse. In it they documented the squalid conditions some bulk wine farms still operate in South Africa and gave two examples of wineries that, decades after the Dop laws were outlawed, were still paying overtime and actual wages in wine and food. This is the real problem for South African wine.  ** Su Birch of WOSA has since said  ”The Human Rights Watch has admitted that the neither of the 2 farms that are said to be still paying in wine (dop), were wine farmers, a fact that they did not disclose in their report. This does not excuse the practice happening on any farm, but it is something the entire wine industry is very vigilant” about.”

One side of the industry is operating at the highest international standards of care for people and agriculture – the small, family-run wine estates being perhaps the best examples of how well the industry can be run – while it seems part of the bulk business, spiritual inheritors of the worst aspects of the wine farm mentality, has not done nearly enough to clean up their act.

The response among the non-bespoke wine estates that want to distance themselves from the shabby treatment of the past has been to take the Fair Trade route towards credibility in the court of world opinion. Thandi Wines would be a good example of a winemaking concern adopting a Fair Trade stance, becoming the first winery to become certified. Again it is not insignificant that already committed high-quality wineries such as Paul Cluver were at the forefront in aiding and supporting the Thandi project.

As in most wine regions, it turns out that people who love their work as a craft and care about producing the best wines they can, in and from land they love, tend to be the victorious source of the best wines. Size or ownership status is not crucial. Thandi is a multi-party collective, Thelema is a family-owned bespoke operation. They share, however, a belief that South African wine can be some of the finest expressions of man and nature in harmony on the planet, something surely along with their motto, ‘With Love We Grow Together‘, is the most aspirational motto for the next phase in the oldest of the New World’s wines.

Cape Nature has just launched its flagship self-catering eco-accommodation at the Kogelberg Biosphere Reserve. Called Oudebosch, it has already received international aclaim with an international Holcim Award for sustainable construction. Natural materials were used in the five self-catering cabins using eco-features like composting toilets, low-flow showers, indigenous plants and mulch basins to minimise water consumption with solar water heating and LED lighting.

Some 60km east of Cape Town, the reserve begins in the Atlantic Ocean and and runs along in a narrow strip between the Atlantic Ocean and the rugged rugged Hottentots Holland  Mountain range – the coastal town of Kleinmond is only 8km away.

This 100,000 hectare UNESCO registered site is home to the most complex biodiversity on the planet with 1880 different plant species – compare this with next richest, the South American rainforest with just 420 species per 10,000 sq kilometers! Apart from the richness of the fynbos, the fauna population ranges from the elusive Cape Leopard, the soaring Cape Eagles and the massive South Right Whales to the many species of mice and shrews, that are important pollinators of the proteas. The is even a herd of wild horses. There are beautiful sunbirds, the Victorians scrub warbler as well as a whole colony of penguins. The Cape Cobra and the aptly named micro mouse as well as large numbers of insects all play their own important roles in this amazing ecosystem.

The KBR does not have traffic lights or jams, casinos, cinemas or shopping malls though all are quite close by…

Instead, you get a place of escape with fresh sea breezes and mountain air, spectacular scenery, with endless beaches, plentiful hiking trails, mountain biking, brown river rafting, birding, whale watching. Close by, you can visit several pristine vineyards producing world class wines in their somewhat cooler climate including Paul Cluver and the Fairtrade Thandi Estate. You can dine here or you can shop for your picnic at nearby farmstalls like the Orchard, Houw Hoek and Peregrine around Grabouw.

Remember, if you want the best 5 star Luxury Accommodation for your Cape Town Holiday, look no further than Pembroke 403.

The number of visitors to Cape Town, both international and domestic continues to grow this summer season with the numbers for 2011 exceeding those of 2010 – the year of the Soccer World Cup.

This is quite an achievement in the current economic climate. It is likely that the many international accolades Cape Town received in 2011 contributed to this with considerable international exposure. These include:

• TripAdvisor Travellers Choice Number 1 Destination of 2011
• World Design Capital 2014
• Table Mountain voted a New 7 Wonder of Nature
• Cape Town was Runner up in the Telegraph Travel Awards of 2011
• One of Lonely Planet’s Top 10 Beach Cities
• One of New York Times Tip 10 Hippest Cities that Think about How they Work
• Conde Nast’s Top City to visit in Africa and the Middle East in 2011
• Huffington Post’s Top 10 most popular Study Abroad Cities

Remember, if you want the best 5 star Luxury Accommodation for your next Cape Town  Holiday, look no further than Pembroke 403.

Newport Deli

• Along the Promenade at Greenpoint.
• No better reward after a bracing walk.
• Have a coffee and a read of the local papers (provided) or add a cake or savoury snack.
• Well stocked grocery shop to rear.

Melissa’s

• V&A Waterfront Mall (and other locations).
• Great for a break when shopping.
• Coffee or more substantial meals with papers and magazines
• Good takeaway options
• Very good deli.

Giovanni’s

• Main Road, Green Point opposite Stadium.
• Great Italian coffee and bistro style food.
• Busy, buzzy with lots of local trade
• Very good deli with breads, take away foods, wines
• Easy to park and run in to stock up.

Manna

• Top of Kloof Street getting close to Mountain.
• Perfect spot for lunch but closed Monday.
• Cool white decor  - very chic & smart.
• Imaginative food with interesting wine by the glass
• Excellent butcher across the road.

Cassis Paris

• Corner of Kildare & Main Road, Newlands.
• Authentic French Salon de Té with perfect patisserie.
• Scrummy lunches with variety of quiche or tarts served with fresh salads.
• No wine in house but wine shop next door will serve by the glass.
• Easy to park and run in to stock up.

Remember, if you want the best 5 star Luxury Accommodation for your Cape Town Golfing Holiday, look no further than Pembroke 403.

• Metropolitan Golf Course

• Milnerton Golf Course

• Clovelly Golf Course

• Steenberg Golf Course

• De Zalze Golf Course

Remember,  if you want the best 5 star Luxury Accommodation for your Cape Town Golfing Holiday, look no further than Pembroke 403.

• Greetings
  • Howzit – one of the most commonly heard – how are you/ how are things?
  • Eita – casual greeting – similar to Howzit
  • Is it? – is that so? or I see what you are saying
• Travel
  • Robot – traffic lights
  • Circle – roundabout
  • Bakkie – small & much used pick-up truck
  • Taxi – generally a minibus used to pickup & drop off lots of people
• Common Expressions
  • Lekker – cool, awesome often about food.
  • Braai – barbeque
  • Biltong - dried meat
  • Shame - can mean lovely or cute or pity etc depending on intonation
  • Now now – right now (well, soon!)
  • Just now – later (maybe much later!)
  • Cape Doctor – wind that blows from South East

Hermanus Misty Waves & Whales

Hermanus is a beautiful seaside town just two leisurely hours drive from your Cape Town luxury apartment along the N2. Apart from its own magically beauty in it’s extensive walking paths along the cliffs in both directions, it is blessed with annual visitations by Southern Right Whales which come to mate and calve in this sheltered bay. It probably has the best land based whale viewing opportunities in the world. To see a full-grown adult whale in his natural environment is an awesome experience. To see 40 or 50 playing around in a large bay with their calves is just unforgettable and I have just spent the last 2 hours in their company.

Whale flicks its tail

The beauty for us humans is that they are so accessible here. From the paved sea-side and cliff walks, one gets perfect viewing of these enormous mammals. At times they are just coasting by 20 or 30 metres from land like giant barnacled but moving rocks. To prove they are not rocks, they send up a spout of spray, or just turn over lazily in the water. At times, overcome with excitement or playfulness, they splash around or beat the water with a large fin.

Paddler closes in on Whale in Hermanus

Today I saw one particularly energetic animal leap out of the water several times and land back with a huge splash. As I said, just awesome.

To my amazement I once saw a breeching whale along the promenade at Seapoint in Cape Town, not more than 10 minutes walk from some of the most luxurious hotels Cape Town has to offer. But to spend a day with a bay full whales in Hermanus has to be a part of every visitors Cape Town holiday experience.

Auberge Burgundy Balcony

We visit Hermanus once a year for the past several years and we always stay at the Auberge Burgundy. It is perfectly situated right in the centre of the town and only a minute’s walk to prime whale viewing positions. The accommodation is very well appointed with generous sized ensuite rooms, many in the peace and calm of the garden, with wifi and tea/coffee making facilities. Once must book in advance particularly when when the whales are visiting. Breakfast is served just across the road. We refer all of our guests, who come to stay at our Cape Town luxurious apartment, to stay at the Auberge Burgundy in Hermanus and we always enjoy browsing their guest book and looking for familiar names.

Marine Hotel Hermanus

There is no shortage of places to eat in Hermanus. We like the Pavilion restaurant at the stylish Marine Hotel. The cooking here is quite creative and the wine list is quite extensive featuring many of the best Cape Wines and in particular those of the nearly Hemel en Aarde and Elgin areas.

We would love you to come to stay at Pembroke 403 – it makes for a perfect base for your luxury Cape Town vacation with day or overnight trips to so many places like Hermanus.

When sitting on the front-facing balcony of my Cape Town luxury apartment, I have nothing but sea views. Underneath I overlook the busy inner Harbour basin. The pristine luxury cabin cruisers and yachts – playthings of the rich & famous – have been joined by the genuine article. Ocean racing yachts, part of the Ocean Global Race, have been slipping in to port for rest and rehabilitation before setting off on the next leg of their race. Daily, I watch as running repairs are carried out to these sleek but tough machines, their brave crews preparing for the unknown.

A little further out, I watch trawlers come and go trailing flocks of sea-gulls, dipping and screeching as they claim the scraps being thrown overboard. These same trawlers deliver fresh fish daily to the many Cape Town Waterfront restaurants hereabouts.

Then as I lift my gaze to the middle distance while still sitting on the balcony of my Cape Town 5 Star apartment, I see the large ships coming and going to Cape Town’s commercial Harbour. Passenger liners come and go, huge container vessels bigger than office blocks set sail laden with export products en route to God knows where.

Yes,  I could sit here all day and even all night where I have a sea view with it’s ever-changing story line. Cape Town Waterfont Marina accommodation really is magical.

Wild Horses lead to TV Lounge

If you are looking for Cape Town 5 Star Accommodation, most people will opt for a 5 star hotel as the base of choice and wouldn’t even consider a Cape Town 5 star apartment. But after you take a look at Pembroke 403, you might take a different view.

For instance, your Pembroke 403 Cape Town 5 star apartment offers you 268sqm of floor space with large balconies facing north and south opening off each room compared with rooms starting at 45sqm in nearby 5 star hotels and that’s only for the entry level double room. But the 5 star hotels provide a high level of service. Well, so does Pembroke 403 with daily

Robin Mann's Tulips bring joy and vibrancy

housekeeping, laundry and dry cleaning services, concierge services before your arrival and throughout your stay, in fact virtually any need need can be catered for.

In your wonderful Cape Town 5 star hotel, you will have a very comforatable double room with ensuite facilities for a maximum of two persons unless you want to fork out a substantial amount more for a suite with a separate sitting area – standards in Cape Town are high and this will certainly be very nice. In contrast, at Pembroke 403 which overlooks two top Cape Town top 5 star hotels, your 5 star apartment will give you

Open plan luxury spacious Marina Suite

the vast Marina suite with an extra length king bed with open plan ensuite facilities including a large double ended bath, twin basins, bidet and wet room with power shower… as well as a dressing area and a large balcony overlooking the Marina. The large lounge and dining area also open onto a balcony and are serviced by a smart and fully equipped Poggenpohl kitchen… and a utility all with Miele appliances.

Now that’s not all. In addition, there is a separate TV lounge and a beautiful and calm Mountain suite with a queen bed and full ensuite facilities. Both of these areas open onto yet another balcony with views to Table Mountain. And just in

How's that for a Kitchen!

case there is a bathroom shortage, there is a further large guest wc with a power shower and  a wet room.

In your 5 star hotel, you can order up your drinks as needed. At Pembroke 403, we have a bespoke wine service offering a range of the Cape’s finest wines to be enjoyed as a sundowner on one of the balconies or as an accompaniment to your meal – self catered, ordered in or prepared in house by a professional chef. Fancy an espresso, americano or cappuccino, you can very simply make your coffee of choice using our Nespresso machine and at a fraction of the price you pay in

View from Marina Balcony of Pembroke 403

nearby 5 star hotels with no compromise on quality.

Like the 5 star hotels, there is absolutely no compromise on the location of Pembroke 403 on the V&A Waterfront Marina and the views from all rooms are mind blowing.

We would love to hear from you with your thoughts or comments on this issue.

Why don’t you experience this first hand?